Historic perfume terms and ingredient names
Part the first.
Getting the scent out of the organic material.
Some of the chemical compounds in the organic material can be destroyed by the heat of steam distillation and so it is instead extracted by the use of a solvent. The commercial chemicals usually used are derived from petrochemicals and have low toxicity or ethyl alcohol. Other parts of the organic matter are also removed, most notably oil,wax and pigments. what is left is usually called the CONCRETE
The ethyl alcohol is also used a second time to remove more of the unneeded material and what is left is called the ABSOLUTE
Distillation is a very common technique to remove the active scent compounds from most organic material.Steam or dry distillation may be used.Distilled products, whether through steam or dry distillation are known either as ESSENTIAL OILS or OTTOS/ATTARs
Water condensed from the steam process of distillation still contails a trace amount of the fragrant material and is correctly called a HYDROSOL. Examples of this are the obvious ones like Rose water, Lavender water and Orange Blossom water.
Only organic material high in oils is extracted by Expression. The citrus family are an example of this along with others. This was the process most commonly used before the spread of distillation.
Enfleurage is the last method used to extract the scent compounds from organic matter. It is a two stage process for compounds that would be destroyed by heat. The material is mixed with wax or fat or a combination of both. Next the mixture is 'washed' with alcohol to extract the volatile oils. This is hardly used in later times as it is a longer and costlier process.
NOTE:Confusingly some preparations use the term 'water' but actually contain alcohol- Toilet Water. To tell the difference look at the ingredients and see if it contains alcohol. If it doesn't then it is a true plant water, if it does, then it is an Eau de Toilette.
Monday 14 February 2011
Thursday 3 February 2011
Grapics Fairy is amazing
This wonderful background to the blog is from The Grapics Fairy, you can find her here:
http://www.graphicsfairy.blogspot.com
She has an amazing array of vintage and antique images and clipart for FREE, yes you heard it, FREE!
Anyone into victorian/steampunk/vintage/shabby chic will be spoilt for choice.
On another note, more information on creating perfumes coming up.
http://www.graphicsfairy.blogspot.com
She has an amazing array of vintage and antique images and clipart for FREE, yes you heard it, FREE!
Anyone into victorian/steampunk/vintage/shabby chic will be spoilt for choice.
On another note, more information on creating perfumes coming up.
Monday 24 January 2011
Free face mask recipe
Yes indeedy, a free recipe, that is not only easy, but safe to do.
Ingredients:
1 tblsp Powdered gelatine
1 tblsp Milk (mine is skimmed, but you can use any sort, even oat)
Microwaveable container (mine is 950w)
Warm your milk up for a few seconds to take the chill off. Sprinkle in the gelatine slowly and stir really well. Microwave for about 10-15 seconds and stir again. It should look like a thick paste by this point. If it doesn't, don't despair, just let it cool a little and keep stirring.
Use an old foundation brush or similar to spread the cooling mask onto your face. Please make sure it's still not hot first! Peel gently off or wash off with warm water, your skin will feel great.
Dry and older skin types can add chopped fresh rose petals or honey to the milk before adding the gelatine
Oily skins can leave it as it is or add in some lemon juice
have fun and be safe with this.
Ingredients:
1 tblsp Powdered gelatine
1 tblsp Milk (mine is skimmed, but you can use any sort, even oat)
Microwaveable container (mine is 950w)
Warm your milk up for a few seconds to take the chill off. Sprinkle in the gelatine slowly and stir really well. Microwave for about 10-15 seconds and stir again. It should look like a thick paste by this point. If it doesn't, don't despair, just let it cool a little and keep stirring.
Use an old foundation brush or similar to spread the cooling mask onto your face. Please make sure it's still not hot first! Peel gently off or wash off with warm water, your skin will feel great.
Dry and older skin types can add chopped fresh rose petals or honey to the milk before adding the gelatine
Oily skins can leave it as it is or add in some lemon juice
have fun and be safe with this.
Wednesday 29 December 2010
perfume scents
I've been working on and off on more perfume blends.
Using original recipes from victorian pharmacy books i have recreated some real historical perfumes.
I have learned so much from those old books including how to blend and preserve certain types of scent, it has been fascinating learning all about perfumes.
One suprising fact is that commercial blended perfumes contain upwards of 250 synthetic chemicals. How bad can that be for your health?
At least going back to the old formulas and using essential oils, the perfumes i make are safer all round as i'm also using safe dilutions for the skin. Commercial perfumes especially parfum strength are actually stronger then aromatherapy dosage.
Only where i can't get a specific smell will i use synthetic alternatives. Not only are many of the animal related products expensive they can be unethical or unsuitable for vegetarians. So to cater to many tastes i prefer to go synthetic for those chemicals like civet, ambergris and musk.
Blending is a more complicated affair, with personal taste and chemical balance coming into consideration.
I seem to have a very sensitive nose and i get headaches if i smell the concentrated oils too much and my nose gets drowned fast. By that i mean that past a certain point i literally know i'm smelling something but it all smells the same. It's different for every person but eventually would happen to most people.
Plastic is a no-no, it absorbs the molecules of scent not as much as skin would but to a similar effect, so keeping everything clean is a must and getting glass beakers and stirring rods is essential for mixing.
Hope those notes have been helpful for anyone interested
ciao for now
Using original recipes from victorian pharmacy books i have recreated some real historical perfumes.
I have learned so much from those old books including how to blend and preserve certain types of scent, it has been fascinating learning all about perfumes.
One suprising fact is that commercial blended perfumes contain upwards of 250 synthetic chemicals. How bad can that be for your health?
At least going back to the old formulas and using essential oils, the perfumes i make are safer all round as i'm also using safe dilutions for the skin. Commercial perfumes especially parfum strength are actually stronger then aromatherapy dosage.
Only where i can't get a specific smell will i use synthetic alternatives. Not only are many of the animal related products expensive they can be unethical or unsuitable for vegetarians. So to cater to many tastes i prefer to go synthetic for those chemicals like civet, ambergris and musk.
Blending is a more complicated affair, with personal taste and chemical balance coming into consideration.
I seem to have a very sensitive nose and i get headaches if i smell the concentrated oils too much and my nose gets drowned fast. By that i mean that past a certain point i literally know i'm smelling something but it all smells the same. It's different for every person but eventually would happen to most people.
Plastic is a no-no, it absorbs the molecules of scent not as much as skin would but to a similar effect, so keeping everything clean is a must and getting glass beakers and stirring rods is essential for mixing.
Hope those notes have been helpful for anyone interested
ciao for now
Wednesday 22 December 2010
quick and easy last minute christmas decoration gifts
wow what a long title, anyway a last minute idea for some home made and hand made tokens very much in a handcrafted/victorian/steampunk sense.
you will need:
scraps of fabric (christmassy, nautral linen, gingham etc)
needle and thread
template shapes or biscuit (coookie) cutters
scraps of lace (optional)
ribbon
remnants of stuffing or more fabric scraps.
some whole spices such as cloves and cinnamon
1. get your template or cutter and draw around the shape for example a star in pencil on the back of your fabric.
2. cut the shapes out with a little seam allowance. put 2 of the same shapes with right sides of the fabric together and sew around the edge leaving at least a 1" gap for turning. trim all the corners for neat points and curves.
3. turn inside out. stuff with scraps or toy stuffing loosely and add the whole spices (or a cotton wool puff with essential oils dropped onto).
4. fold a 3" length of ribbon in half and as you sew the gap in your stuffed shape, sew in the ribbon for hanging. (this part could also be done beforehand by more experienced sewers)
options:
hearts in natural linen with a scrap of lace overlaid make a more zakka/country style, as does ginham, stars in sparkly fabric for a more christmassy feel, felt snowmen etc etc
these are really easy to do and a small group of these as a last minute gift or for an unexpected guest will be a welcome token.
FELIZ NAVIDAD, FROHE WIENACHTEN, JOYEUX NOEL, GOD JUL, MERRY CHRISTMAS, HAPPY WINTER SOLSTICE.
have a peaceful and happy end to the year.
you will need:
scraps of fabric (christmassy, nautral linen, gingham etc)
needle and thread
template shapes or biscuit (coookie) cutters
scraps of lace (optional)
ribbon
remnants of stuffing or more fabric scraps.
some whole spices such as cloves and cinnamon
1. get your template or cutter and draw around the shape for example a star in pencil on the back of your fabric.
2. cut the shapes out with a little seam allowance. put 2 of the same shapes with right sides of the fabric together and sew around the edge leaving at least a 1" gap for turning. trim all the corners for neat points and curves.
3. turn inside out. stuff with scraps or toy stuffing loosely and add the whole spices (or a cotton wool puff with essential oils dropped onto).
4. fold a 3" length of ribbon in half and as you sew the gap in your stuffed shape, sew in the ribbon for hanging. (this part could also be done beforehand by more experienced sewers)
options:
hearts in natural linen with a scrap of lace overlaid make a more zakka/country style, as does ginham, stars in sparkly fabric for a more christmassy feel, felt snowmen etc etc
these are really easy to do and a small group of these as a last minute gift or for an unexpected guest will be a welcome token.
FELIZ NAVIDAD, FROHE WIENACHTEN, JOYEUX NOEL, GOD JUL, MERRY CHRISTMAS, HAPPY WINTER SOLSTICE.
have a peaceful and happy end to the year.
Tuesday 7 December 2010
Making my bjd is still going on. Slowly, but still going. After reading posts on The Joint forum it does make me wonder about people you know.
First, they think that the forum (and every other of its' kind) is there to tell them step by step actually how to sculpt, materials etc, then second, they think that it is cheaper to make a bjd than it is to buy one!
What can i say...it's a very personal process and no-one can teach you how to sculpt, joint, mold, cast etc. Every maker has a different process, every country has different products available. It's all down to research. But then nowadays everyone seems to think that you don't have to read and search for information, it should all be provided for you with buckets of people to hold your hand and tell you exactly what you want to hear. As to the cost...it costs a hell of a lot more to get to the stage where you have a decent looking bjd than it does to buy the things.
It also takes dedication over a lot of time and of course motivation. From a complete novice stage to getting a head that looks like a head and not some alien it took me 2 years. It has taken me another year and a half to learn about resin and moldmaking. I actually think that is pretty good for someone who never learned how to sculpt before and also had energy limitations.
I still have a lot of work to do to get a master decent enough to send away for casting but i think i have actually achieved something for myself getting this far.
First, they think that the forum (and every other of its' kind) is there to tell them step by step actually how to sculpt, materials etc, then second, they think that it is cheaper to make a bjd than it is to buy one!
What can i say...it's a very personal process and no-one can teach you how to sculpt, joint, mold, cast etc. Every maker has a different process, every country has different products available. It's all down to research. But then nowadays everyone seems to think that you don't have to read and search for information, it should all be provided for you with buckets of people to hold your hand and tell you exactly what you want to hear. As to the cost...it costs a hell of a lot more to get to the stage where you have a decent looking bjd than it does to buy the things.
It also takes dedication over a lot of time and of course motivation. From a complete novice stage to getting a head that looks like a head and not some alien it took me 2 years. It has taken me another year and a half to learn about resin and moldmaking. I actually think that is pretty good for someone who never learned how to sculpt before and also had energy limitations.
I still have a lot of work to do to get a master decent enough to send away for casting but i think i have actually achieved something for myself getting this far.
Tuesday 30 November 2010
wow, with many computer crashes and problems of health i actually LOST this account!!!
Anyway i have things planned and need to sort out some more japanese inspired projects and patterns for free.
I've also got back into Steampunk and have even started making Steampunk USB 8GB flash dives. I will post up some pictures soon as i'm going to be starting work on them soon.
I have also in the time gone by been sculpting, mould making and casting a small BJD and i'm very close to getting the point where i have a master that i'm going to send away to be cast.
I found a very interesting article through the Brass Goggles forum about precious metal clay and actually making the stuff. With a small amount of brass powder i have sitting around it is very tempting.
Anyway i have things planned and need to sort out some more japanese inspired projects and patterns for free.
I've also got back into Steampunk and have even started making Steampunk USB 8GB flash dives. I will post up some pictures soon as i'm going to be starting work on them soon.
I have also in the time gone by been sculpting, mould making and casting a small BJD and i'm very close to getting the point where i have a master that i'm going to send away to be cast.
I found a very interesting article through the Brass Goggles forum about precious metal clay and actually making the stuff. With a small amount of brass powder i have sitting around it is very tempting.
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